Sub freeze and the chickens - A quick what to do!

WOW it is cold out there.  Two days now and last night and today are the coldest but tomorrow we should start to warm up a bit.  Remember to keep an eye on your backyard flock.  Most chickens will seek shelter when it is too windy or cold but sometimes you just go out there at 7:00 pm and the girls are still running around or sitting on a roost bar in the run.

We do not recommend heating your coops, due to risk of fire it also can cause issues with the chickens becoming to warm and not adjusting to the cold.  So what can you do?

1. If you use wood chips in your coop look at using the deep litter method.  That is not cleaning up the bottom of the coop leaving the waste and chips in place.  What happens is the wood and waste decompose and it can increase the temp in the coop by almost 20 degrees.  It was 2 last night with a wind chill of -10.  Our coop temp was 38 degrees, comfortable for the girls.  You will need to fluff the chips and keep it from freezing and you will also need to keep adding fresh chips to it.  when it reaches about 3" deep remove half of the chips for fresh.  You still need to clean everything else as normal.

2.  If you don't have a water heater, we use a light bulb under the plastic water container and even then it froze partially during the day, bring the water in at night , take it back out in the morning when you open the coop.  Also periodically during the day take an additional bowl of warm water out they will appreciate it.

3.  Keep and eye on the waddles and combs, apply a thin layer of Vaseline on them (no more than you would want on your lips)  that will help prevent frostbite on the ones with larger combs and waddles.  Another recommendation is always try to stick with breeds that are cold hardy like reds, sex links, and wyandottes, though they to can get frostbite.  We inspect them as they go in the coop at night.

4.  Food.  They need high fat protein during the winter for energy, switch from mixed seed scratch to

cracked corn, treat them to a cup or two of hot oatmeal.  Avoid most produce since it will freeze.  You can also use suet with sunflower seeds.  Remember to treat those items as treats and limit them to 10% of their diet these are not replacements to their regular feed.

Side note - remember to check for eggs regularly.  Our girls are still laying regularly and an egg can freeze and crack in less than an hour in these temps.  If they crack don't eat them.  Scramble them up and let the girls enjoy some eggs as well.  We also recommend that if you suspect they did freeze, wash the eggs in cold water and immediately place in the refrigerator, I don't normally recommend washing the eggs but in this an exception.

How to Keep Ducks

If a permaculture gardener is thinking about getting some poultry as livestock, more often then not their first inclination is to have some chickens. A reasonable enough assumption, when chickens are much more common on smallholdings and constitute the most popular meat in America. There is also a lot of information available about keeping chickens, and the birds seem ideally suited to a permaculture plot, with several yields and relatively energy and time efficient in terms of maintenance.

Indian runners

Chickens are great, but the permaculturist might want to take a moment and consider ducks as an alternative poultry livestock animal. The y have many of the benefits of chickens but with added attractions all their own. For instance, ducks produce eggs that are richer in taste and more loaded with nutrients than chicken eggs. Protein, calcium, iron and potassium levels are all higher in duck eggs than chicken eggs, and they are just as versatile in the kitchen, suitable for everything from baking to poaching. Ducks have many of the same needs as chickens, which the permaculture gardener will need to meet to ensure the animals’ survival and comfort, but ducks are arguably lower-maintenance than their cousins, as they forage for a greater proportion of their food from the garden. The majority of the food that ducks source while foraging is organisms that, if not kept under control, can become pests, particularly slugs and snails. Ducks are also hardier than chickens and can thrive in ore extreme weather conditions, and are generally quieter, making them more suitable for urban areas where neighbors are closer. And while chickens are characterful birds, ducks are arguably even more fun to be around – playful and always curious about investigating new things.

If you do decide to take the plunge with ducks as livestock, you need to analyze the needs, or inputs, of the birds and ensure you can meet them on your plot.

Choose Breed

Pekin ducks

Most commonly available breeds of duck will give you plenty of eggs, but you may also want to raise the birds for meat, maximizing the outputs of your livestock. There are certain dual-purpose breeds that are particularly suited to permaculture plots. The most popular breed in the U.S. is the Pekin, sometimes called the Long Island Duck. They are pure white with an orange beak, and can produce up to 200 eggs a year. The Muscovy is another popular option, producing leaner meat and renowned for the range of insects and spiders they will forage. Another good choice would be the Indian Runner, which does not fly and can give up to 300 eggs per year.

Get Several

Muscovy duck

Ducks are very social animals and it is not recommended, for the sake of the animal’s well being, to keep a single bird. Three to five ducks is a good size flock to start with, and is suitable for all but the smallest permaculture plots. If you just have two ducks and one dies, the other will become very distressed. If you are planning on breeding your ducks, you should have three ducks and one drake.

Housing

Ducks need housing, but as they do not perch like chickens, the shelter can be simpler. A simple shed will suffice. You should put the shed on a raised platform. This not only make cleaning and collecting eggs is easier for you and doesn’t involve bending (ducks can easily climb ramps) but also ensures the shelter is well ventilated. Ducks don’t naturally go to a roost at night, but will quickly learn if you make herding them into the shelter a routine. The shelter should be protected against predators, with heavy mesh fencing, and which is also sunk to keep predators from digging underneath.

Because they don’t perch and sleep at ground level (or on the floor of the shelter if it is raised), you need to provide a litter for the ducks. There are several suitable options, from straw, hay, leaves and sawdust to shredded bark or rice hulls. The bedding will need to be replaced or at least renewed every week or so, as it will become wet with droppings. But when you do replace the bedding, it makes a great addition to a no-dig garden bed or the compost pile.

Be aware that ducks do not confine their egg laying to their roost at night; they will lay wherever they are foraging, so you may need to check around the plot when collecting the eggs.

Water

All ducks need access to a water source. If you already have a stream or pond on your property, you’re sorted, but even if you don’t you can still keep ducks. The birds need a water body that is big enough for them to bathe in and deep enough so that they can dip their heads entirely underneath (they rely on this to clean their nostrils and eyes, as they do not have tear ducts). You could reuse an old children’s sandpit, or any plastic container that is at least 30 centimeters deep. Given that the ducks use the water primarily for cleaning, it will get dirty, so replace the water regularly, preferably with harvested rainwater.

Protection

Ideally, you would like to let your ducks range freely in your plot. If so, make sure the site is well secured with fencing to prevent predators attacking your birds. If wild animal predation is a real problem, you could confine your ducks to an enclosed run during the day, but it need to be reasonably large to give the flock enough space, and must include your water body.

Food

Like chickens, ducks are omnivorous. If they are allowed to roam in the garden they will forage for slugs, snails, worms and other insects, and will also eat grass. Generally they don’t graze on vegetable or fruit plants, the exceptions being salad greens and strawberries, and do not scratch at the soil like chickens. This is beneficial in terms of not disturbing your garden plants, but be aware that the ducks’ flat feet can trample seedlings. If possible, allow them to forage in orchards or underneath vines, where they will do the least damage and give the most benefit in terms of pest control. Supplement this with an organic grain mix, and add kelp powder once a week to boost the ducks’ immunity. Like chickens, ducks should also have access to grit to aid their digestion.

*****Reprinted from Open Permaculture Magazine***** Original link below.
https://www.openpermaculture.com/magazine/keep-ducks

Front-yard vegetable gardens may end in one Florida community

Back in 2013 we introduced Tom Carroll and Hermine Ricketts of Miami Shores, a small burg of 10,500 Floridians that was originally a neighborhood within the city of Miami until it was incorporated as its own village in 1932.  Their story began as so many other tales of individuals who wanted to grow their own food, in place of water wasting lawns.  They had been growing vegetables in their front yard for well over 17 years until the village ordered by town officials to do away with the vegetable garden.

In the land of pink flamingos and salamander wall sculptures, one Florida couple is embroiled in a lengthy legal battle over the right to grow vegetables in their front yard. (Video screenshot: Miami Herald/YouTube)  

We had hoped back then that this would go the way of several other cases nation wide and individual property rights would be upheld and not be dragged out in the courts, but in Tom and Hermine's case this was not the out come.  Three years have passed and we are awaiting a judges ruling, some time in the next few weeks, but the damage as been done.  Faced with $50 per day fines for disobeying a new village ordinance, Tom and Hermine were forced to remove their organic garden, which, contained over 75 different types of vegetables including kale, onions, Swiss chard, spinach and Asian cabbage.

The zoning ordinance that called for front-yard conformity and dictated what residents could plant on their property. Vegetable gardens weren’t outlawed outright but they were relegated to backyards. As reported by the Miami Herald, the crackdown was prompted by a complaint issued by a single neighbor. Whether or not said neighbor was new to the area or had simply been harboring ill-will toward Tom and Hermine and their garden for over a decade is not known at this time.

Richard Sarafan, attorney for the village argued to the judge that the village is within its right to dictate what is grown — or isn’t grown — in the front yards of homeowners while making it abundantly clear that vegetables are great, so long as they are kept out of sight in backyards. There certainly is not fundamental right to grow vegetables in your front yard,” Sarafan claimed. “Aesthetics and uniformity are legitimate government purposes. Not every property can lawfully be used for every purpose.”  Sarafan also mentions grass, sod and “living ground cover” as acceptable forms of front-yard vegetation within village limits.

Final thought -

Jack boot local governments continue on as they exert their position of doing what is best for everyone, with out regard for individual rights and liberties.  We have seen numerous cases of the federal, state and local governments restricting water rights or attempting to when attempting to collect rain water, instituting solar taxes as well as taxes on geothermal, to prop up their personal pursuits or that of their lobbyist.  We have local officials who attempt to get into office under the pretense of green initiatives and a move for more sustainable communities, when they themselves have little regard for any of that except it was a positive campaign tool.  Although the judge may decide in favor of Tom and Hermine's case they have already been forced to end their pursuit of providing for themselves as they have done for 17 years, or they could decide on the side of the village, providing another stepping stone for other municipalities to follow suit and ban whatever a few council members feel is unacceptable in accordance to their personal have and have not beliefs.  I say this, plant away, then plant some more.  If they say remove it plant some edible wilds, then plant even more.  Plant, plant and plant, find vacant lots and plant, plant on the porch, in the windows and on the fence, stick that cabbage among the marigolds, stick garlic in with the coreopsis and mix in pole beans with the morning glories!

Companion Planting Guide

Spring has sprung and now things should be starting to sprout.  I know even in my colder climate we have gotten pumpkins, pole beans and tomatoes in the ground.  Shortly the cucumbers, and zucchini shall follow.  Colder plants like beets and radishes as well as carrots are well into growing and close to harvest, but what about all that extra space?  You know the 12 inches you left between plants.  It is wasted space and it could be a gold mine if you plant in it accordingly.  Some plants are buddies, some are downright toxic to others.



It’s helpful to think of building good plant communities when planning your garden. This is the most important concept behind companion planting. Time-tested garden wisdom holds that certain plants grown close together become helpmates. (See the list at the bottom.)

Plants need good companions to thrive. Except for growth and fruiting, plants are relatively idle objects. They are rooted in one spot and don’t seem to have much control over their environment. In fact, however, relationships between plants are varied - similar to relationships between people. In plant communities, certain plants support each other while others, well, just don’t get along. Plants, like people, compete for resources.

Science confirms some plants bully others. Certain plants grow rapidly, crowd others and take more than their fair share of water, sun and nutrients. Some exude toxins that retard plant growth or kill plants. A common example of this is the Black Walnut tree that produces hydrojuglone. Other plants are upstanding citizens and do good by adding nutrients to the soil, drawing beneficial insects into the garden or by confusing insects in search of their host plants.

As a gardener, you’re the both the mayor and the city planner for the city that is your garden. By growing plants with good companions, you bring peace and prosperity to your town.

As in city planning, the way your lay your vegetable garden out is crucial. Avoid planting vegetables in large patches or long rows and interplant with flowers and herbs. Large groupings of one type of vegetable serve as a beacon to problematic pests. If you mix in flowers and herbs, it becomes more difficult for pests to find your veggies. The scent of flowers and herbs, as well as the change up in color, is thought to confuse pests. Certain flowers and herbs attract beneficial insects to your garden.

Almost any article on companion planting references the Native American “Three Sister Planting”. This age old grouping involves growing corn, beans and squash – often pumpkin - in the same area. As the corn stalks grow, beans naturally find support by climbing up the stalk. Beans, as all legumes, fix nitrogen in the soil, which supports the large nutritional needs of corn. Squash grows rapidly and the large squash leaves shade out weeds and serve as natural weed block. Good plant companions work in support of each other.

Many long time gardeners swear that growing certain plants together improves flavor as well. While science hasn’t found support for some of the benefits of companion planting, there is support for the above information. Garden wisdom and experience supports these traditional beneficial plant companions.

Here are combinations found to be beneficial over time from Todd Weinmann of North Dakota State University Agriculture Extension:

ASPARAGUS- Companions: Basil, parsley, tomato. Ally: Pot marigold deters beetles.

BEANS - Companions: Beet (to bush beans only), cabbage family, carrot, celery, chard, corn, cucumber, eggplant, pea, potatoes, radish, strawberry. Enemies: Garlic, onion and shallot stunt the growth of beans. Allies: Marigold deters Mexican bean beetles. Nasturtium and rosemary deter bean beetles. Summer savory deters bean beetles, improves growth and flavor.

BEETS - Companions: Bush beans, cabbage family, lettuce, onion. Ally: Garlic improves growth and flavor. Enemies: Pole beans and beets stunt each other's growth.

CABBAGE FAMILY (Broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, Chinese cabbage, kale and kohlrabi) - Companions: Beet, celery, chard, cucumber, lettuce, onion, potato, spinach. Allies: Chamomile and garlic improve growth and flavor.

Catnip, hyssop, rosemary and sage deter cabbage moth. Dill improves growth and health. Mint deters cabbage moth and ants, improves health and flavor. Nasturtium deters bugs, beetles, aphids. Southernwood deters cabbage moth, improves growth and flavor. Tansy deters cabbageworm and cutworm. Thyme deters cabbageworm.

Enemies: Kohlrabi and tomato stunt each other's growth.

CARROTS - Companions: Bean, lettuce, onion, pea, pepper, radish, tomato. Allies: Chives improve growth and flavor. Rosemary and sage deter carrot fly. Enemy: Dill retards growth.

CELERY- Companions: Bean, cabbage family and tomato. Allies: Chives and garlic deter aphids. Nasturtium deters bugs and aphids.

CHARD - Companions: Bean, cabbage family and onion

CORN - Companions: Bean, cucumber, melon, parsley, pea, potato, pumpkin, squash. Enemies: Tomatoes and corn are attacked by the same worm. Allies: Odorless marigold and white geranium deter Japanese beetles. Pigweed raises nutrients from the subsoil to where the corn can reach them.

CUCUMBER -Companions: Bean, cabbage family, corn, pea, radish, tomato Enemy: Sage is generally injurious to cucumber. Allies: Marigold deters beetles.

Nasturtium deters aphids, beetles and bugs, improves growth and flavor.

Oregano deters pests in general. Tansy deters ants, beetles, bugs, flying insects.

EGGPLANT-Companions: Bean, pepper. Allies: Marigold deters nematodes.

LETTUCE-Companions: Beet, cabbage family, carrot, onion, radish, strawberry. Allies: Chives and garlic deter aphids.

MELONS-Companions: Corn, pumpkin, radish, squash. Allies: Marigold deters beetles. Nasturtium deters bugs and beetles. Oregano provides general pest protection

ONlONS - Companions: Beet, cabbage family, carrot, chard, lettuce, pepper, strawberry, tomato. Enemies: Onions stunt bean, pea. Allies: Chamomile and summer savory improve growth and flavor. Pigweed raises nutrients from subsoil and makes them available to the onions. Sow thistle improves growth and health.

PARSLEY - Companions: Asparagus, corn, tomato

PEAS-Companions: Bean, carrot, corn, cucumber, radish, turnip. Allies: Chives deter aphids. Mint improves health and flavor. Enemies: Garlic and onion stunt the growth of peas.

PEPPERS-Companions: Carrot, eggplant, onion and tomato

POTATOES - Companions: Beans, cabbage family, corn, eggplant, pea. Enemies: Tomatoes and potatoes are attacked by the same blight. Allies: Horseradish, planted at the corners of the potato patch, provides general protection. Marigold deters beetles.

PUMPKINS - Companions: Corn, melon, squash. Allies: Marigold deters beetles. Nasturtium deters bugs, beetles. Oregano provides general pest protection.

RADISHES-Companions: Bean, carrot, cucumber, lettuce, melon, pea. Allies: Chervil and nasturtium improve growth and flavor. Enemy: Hyssop

SPINACH-Companions: Cabbage family, strawberry

SQUASH- Companions: Corn, melon, pumpkin. Allies: Borage deters worms, improves growth and flavor. Marigold deters beetles. Nasturtium deters squash bugs and beetles. Oregano provides general pest protection.

STRAWBERRY- Companions: Bean, lettuce, onion, spinach, thyme. Enemy: Cabbage. Allies: Borage strengthens resistance to insects and disease. Thyme, as a border, deters worms.

TOMATOES- Companions: Asparagus, carrot, celery, cucumber, onion, parsley, pepper. Enemies: Corn and tomato are attacked by the same worm. Mature dill retards tomato growth. Kohlrabi stunts tomato growth. Potatoes and tomatoes are attacked by the same blight. Allies: Basil repels flies and mosquitoes, improves growth and flavor. Bee balm, chives and mint improve health and flavor.

Borage deters tomato worm, improves growth and flavor. Dill, until mature, improves growth and health. Once mature, it stunts tomato growth. Marigold deters nematodes. Pot marigold deters tomato worm and general garden pests,

TURNIPS - Companion: Pea

The other 9%

Everything is stacked against the small farm. 9% of the Nations farms control over 40% of food production. These are large farms, not small local, family owned, nor near a city center. Take a stroll through your local farmers market, many of those selling produce are selling items purchased at auction mixed with their own produce, despite many farmers markets forbidding that practice. Most are more than 50 miles from their farms. Prices are controlled by an unnatural market practice. This is why urban farming needs to be an essential element of cities. In Troy there have been officials, both past and present that say farming does not belong in the city, but that is just bull. Creation of internal markets to any urban environment will stimulate growth and income, both personally but municipally, through sales tax revenue, and even by allowing urban farmers to developing urban lots as a business to generate property tax income. Failure to think outside of the establishments predefined frame of what a city is, is a sure indication of continued failure of a municipality. Add to that with farms within the urban frame that means even fresher and more diverse and desirable produce, and micro-livestock is now available without the overhead of moving it hundreds of miles each weekend just to set up at the local farmers market only to be undersold by another farmer who mixes auction produce with their own grown produce at a lower cost. Read on for more on this and the effects this has on small scale farmers.

The Blue Review

Chin up and happy farming,

John

Is self-sufficiency really under attack?

Is self-sufficiency under attack? I have asked this question time and time again. Like others, we have all read about those stories of people living off grid being attacked by the political machine, governments and even neighbors. Of course more people are leaning more to an eco-friendly lifestyle not only out of environmental concerns but with major financial benefit it can have in the long run.

I have heard many different sides to this tale and the sides against are often weak.  I mention this to some in urban areas and often the comments are the same, “You live in the city and the services are there, and why not use them?”  Why not use them?  That does not change the burden on the infrastructure, the environment or our wallet.  Most municipalities, including Troy, NY are antiquated infrastructures.  In Troy you can often find wooden water and sewer lines dating back 175 years or more.  The rate of failure is high and while safe drinking water is a must whether on or off the grid we have seen recently a number of surrounding areas that are testing positive for known carcinogens in their public water as well as well water.  We have seen water supply mains fail causing disruption in services, property damage and a loss of millions of gallons of water.  Property owners pay for water and sewer as a combined service to our municipality and proceeds are to go for upkeep of that infrastructure, of which less than 6% is used just for that, hence the continued failure of the system.  Another fine example is cost, and I am focusing on water and sewer because that is where most of the arguments seem to be coming from.  Recently in budget planning it was noted the manager of the Sewer and Water Department wanted to raise the water and sewer rates 100%.  His argument was because residents are conserving more water therefore the department is not bringing in enough revenue………..I give long pause so you can digest that statement.  Residents are conserving more water.  What would be next?  Raise the trash rates because residents are recycling more or now home composting?

Honestly if money was of no concern, I would introduce a composting toilet system, grey water recycler, methane digester to fuel, cistern and water filtration system as well as full solar and get the heck off the city grid.  Arguments have been out there that you have to use the municipal sewer.  Why?  Because it is the law.  Where?  It is a health law.  How is a composting toilet unhealthy?  The arguments are weak and short sighted.  The truth is it cuts into revenue for the municipality.  Power companies are doing the same thing, pushing for localized taxing for those on full solar and off the electric grid.

Some say if you want to be off the grid you need to move to the backwoods and to that I say bull.  Technologies out there now can get everyone off the grid partially if not fully in any area, urban or rural.  Zoning laws are the tools municipalities like to use to control residents, but remember this, almost everyone serving on a zoning board is a political appointee to help carry an agenda, or know nothing about zoning in the first place or both.  They base a lot of decision on popular belief, not fundamental modern practices.

Relying on your municipality to provide sewer and water service is expected, especially if you’re paying for it, but should not be your only option as restoration of services is at a best effort, not a guarantee.  Rain collection, generator, human waste recycling, grey water recycling are all affordable items that can be installed in your home, usually cheaper than solar for all of them.  Add into that producing your own food, storage of root vegetables, chickens and other micro-livestock like fish and you should be able to weather most situations just fine and put yourself on the path of self-sufficiency and living off the grid, even in an urban environment on a 120x25 single family lot.